What is glycolic acid and what is its role in cosmetics?
Glycolic Acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) of natural origin, extracted mainly from sugar cane. It is widely used in dermatology and cosmetics for its exfoliating properties, its action on cell renewal and its effectiveness against various skin problems.
Thanks to its small molecular size, it penetrates deep into the epidermis, helping to eliminate dead cells, brighten the complexion, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and diminish skin imperfections.
What are the benefits of glycolic acid for the skin?
Glycolic Acid is recognized for its multiple actions on the skin:
Powerful exfoliation: It dissolves dead cells, stimulates cell renewal and refines skin texture.
Reduction of fine lines and wrinkles: promotes collagen production, improving skin elasticity and firmness.
Action against pigmentation spots: Helps brighten the complexion, reducing brown spots, acne scars and pigmentation irregularities.
Sebum regulation: effective against excess sebum, reducing the appearance of blackheads and pimples.
Improves skin hydration: reinforces the cutaneous barrier, optimizing the skin's ability to retain moisture.
Reduces blemishes: Helps prevent and treat acne lesions, reducing inflammation and promoting healing.
How to use glycolic acid safely?
Glycolic Acid should be gradually integrated into a skincare routine to avoid irritation:
Low concentration (5-10%): Suitable for sensitive skin or for daily use as a lotion or serum.
Moderate concentration (10-20%): Recommended for skin used to AHAs, for a more intense exfoliating effect.
High concentration (30% and over): Used as a dermatological peel, under medical supervision.
It is essential to apply sunscreen during the day, as glycolic acid makes skin photosensitive and increases the risk of hyperpigmentation.
What skin types can use glycolic acid?
Glycolic Acid is suitable for most skin types, but certain precautions should be taken:
Normal to oily skin: Benefit fully from its exfoliating and seboregulating effects.
Combination skin: Can use it to even out the complexion and control excess sebum.
Sensitive skin: Should opt for low concentrations, as glycolic acid can cause irritation and redness.
Acne-prone skin: Helps unclog pores and reduce breakouts, while avoiding excessive application that could weaken the skin barrier.
What are the side effects and precautions for using glycolic acid?
Glycolic Acid is generally well tolerated, but certain side effects may occur:
Redness and irritation: especially with the first applications or at high concentrations.
Skin dryness: excessive use can alter the lipid barrier.
Increased sensitivity to the sun: Unprotected exposure may result in burns or hyperpigmentation.
It is advisable to carry out a skin test before incorporating glycolic acid into your routine, and to avoid applying it to damaged or highly reactive skin.
What's the difference between glycolic acid and other AHAs?
Glycolic Acid is a member of the AHA family, but differs from other acids in its small molecular size, enabling it to penetrate deeper into the skin.
Lactic acid: milder, better tolerated by sensitive skin.
Mandelic acid: Ideal for reactive skin prone to pigmentation spots.
Citric acid: Mainly used for its lightening action.
Glycolic Acid is the most effective for intense exfoliation, but should be used with caution to avoid side effects.
Can glycolic acid be combined with other active ingredients?
Glycolic Acid can be combined with certain active ingredients, but certain combinations should be avoided:
Hyaluronic acid: Helps maintain skin hydration after exfoliation.
Niacinamide: Soothes skin and reduces redness.
Retinol: May irritate and alter the skin barrier.
Vitamin C: Can be too aggressive when combined with glycolic acid.
It is recommended to space out these active ingredients in the skincare routine to avoid skin reactions.
How long does it take to see the effects of Glycolic Acid?
The first visible results generally appear after one to two weeks of regular use. A significant improvement in skin texture, radiance and evenness of complexion is seen after 4 to 6 weeks.
Long-term use helps to reduce the signs of skin aging, improve skin texture and reduce scarring and pigmentation spots.
