Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) widely used in dermatology for its keratolytic, anti-inflammatory and comedolytic properties. It is present in many skincare products designed for oily, acne-prone or blemish-prone skin. This FAQ aims to answer the main questions about this dermatological active ingredient.
What is salicylic acid and how does it act on the skin?
Salicylic acid is a compound derived from willow bark and wintergreen. It belongs to the beta-hydroxyacid class, which gives it a liposolubility that enables it to penetrate deep into pores and eliminate excess sebum and impurities.
This active ingredient acts by exfoliating dead cells, unclogging hair follicles and reducing the inflammatory processes responsible for acne lesions. Its keratolytic effect facilitates cell renewal, while its antiseptic action limits bacterial proliferation.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for the skin?
Salicylic acid has a number of dermatological benefits:
Keratolytic action: eliminates dead cells and promotes cell renewal
Reduction of blackheads and blemishes: unclogs pores and regulates sebum secretion
Anti-inflammatory properties: soothes redness and reduces inflammatory skin reactions
Complexion brightening: evens skin tone and reduces post-inflammatory pigmentation spots
Anti-aging effect: improves skin texture and reduces the appearance of fine lines
What type of skin is salicylic acid suitable for?
Salicylic acid is particularly recommended for oily, acne-prone or blackhead-prone skin. It can also be used with caution on combination skin, in a localized application on the T-zone.
It should be used sparingly on dry and sensitive skin, due to its irritant potential and drying effect. In these cases, a lower concentration and reduced frequency of application are recommended.
How do I incorporate salicylic acid into my skincare routine?
Salicylic acid can be found in various galenic forms, such as cleansers, lotions, serums and creams.
A cleanser containing a low concentration of salicylic acid can be used daily to purify the skin and prevent sebum build-up. A serum or lotion with a higher concentration can be applied one to three times a week, depending on skin tolerance.
As salicylic acid can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays, the use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen is essential during the day.
What are the side effects of salicylic acid?
Inappropriate or excessive use of salicylic acid can lead to adverse reactions. The most commonly observed side effects are :
Skin dryness: salicylic acid promotes the elimination of surface lipids, which can damage the skin barrier.
Irritation and redness: burning or stinging sensations may occur, particularly on sensitive skin.
Excessive desquamation: if applied too frequently or at too high a concentration.
To limit these effects, we recommend starting with a low concentration (0.5-2%) and gradually increasing the frequency of use.
Can salicylic acid be combined with other active ingredients?
Salicylic acid can be combined with other dermatological agents to optimize its efficacy, but certain combinations should be avoided to prevent excessive skin irritation.
Beneficial associations:
Niacinamide: improves skin barrier function and reduces redness
Hyaluronic acid: moisturizes and compensates for the drying effect of salicylic acid
Zinc: reinforces sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory effect
Combinations to avoid:
Retinol: potentially irritating combination due to the exfoliating effect of both active ingredients
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic acid): risk of excessive sensitization
Vitamin C: may cause instability in formulations and alter the efficacy of active ingredients
Is salicylic acid safe to use during pregnancy?
Topical application of salicylic acid at a concentration of less than 2% is generally considered safe during pregnancy. However, due to its potential for cutaneous absorption and its membership of the salicylate family, it is advisable to seek medical advice before use.
Where can I buy products containing salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid-based skin care products are available in pharmacies, parapharmacies and specialized dermatology stores. It's best to opt for dermatologically tested formulations, free from irritating alcohol and allergenic fragrances, to minimize the risk of skin irritation.
